Conventional wisdom says that once nail keratin is formed, it’s biologically inert—dead, incapable of repair, and only replaced as the nail grows out from the base. From this perspective, any removal of the nail surface (like buffing) is permanent. And if repeated, it should drastically thin and damage the nail over time.
But what if that’s not the whole story?
I’ve been gently buffing my nails once a month—for over 7 years. That’s more than 80 sessions of light resurfacing. And yet my nails are not brittle, weak, or visibly thinned. In fact, they are smooth, strong, and resilient. This consistent result from me and thousands of Bare Hands customers suggests something that the cosmetic industry tends to overlook:
Nail keratin may be more dynamic than we think.
What Science Says About Keratin
The nail plate is made of compacted layers of keratin—some “hard” hair-type keratins that give structure, and some “soft” epithelial keratins that add flexibility. These proteins are bonded together, forming the protective surface we see and feel.
Traditionally, it’s believed that once these layers leave the nail matrix (the growth center at the base of the nail), they’re “finished”—they can’t be repaired or rebuilt. But recent research in related areas like skin barrier science and hair fiber recovery shows that even fully keratinized structures can undergo:
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Surface reorganization
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Disulfide bond reformation
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Lipid replenishment
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Micro-compaction of keratin filaments
In other words, while these tissues may not be alive in the cellular sense, they respond to care, and may even show signs of functional repair.
What This Means for Buffing
Buffing isn’t about grinding the nail down. When done correctly, it’s a form of gentle alignment—smoothing the uppermost layer, encouraging shine, and removing surface irregularities. It also appears to prompt a kind of “resettling” of keratin proteins, allowing harder and softer keratins to fuse more tightly and reflect more light.
A New Understanding of Nail Care
The appearance and strength of a nail are not static. They’re the result of complex interactions between keratin types, hydration, lipid content, and external care. Buffing, when done with intention and restraint, doesn’t strip the nail—it supports a subtle regenerative process that may include:
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Improved keratin alignment
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Strengthened surface cohesion
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Enhanced light reflection
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Possible low-level replenishment from the nail bed or lateral matrix
This challenges the narrative that nails are simply passive sheets of dead tissue. And it supports a more nuanced view: nail keratin may not be alive, but it is not inert.
We believe, as do thousands of customers, that gentle, consistent care significantly impacts the overall quality of their nails.
If you’re curious about how the Dry Gloss Manicure method will work with your nail type, take our quiz for customized recommendations. And for a more thorough understanding of how our buffing technology works, this article is your best resource.
