We talk a lot about the natural shine that our glass Polisher creates… But what’s the actual magic behind it?
Our answer: Keratin compression
If that sounds confusing, don’t worry — it’s a whole new (nail) language! Keratin is often mentioned in beauty products, but what it actually does (and how you can revitalize it) can feel pretty unclear.
So let’s chat about what keratin is, and how our glass Polisher is its perfect match.
The Foundation
The nail plate (the visible, hard part) is made up of a translucent protein that gives your nails their strength and flexibility. This is called keratin.
Your nail has two distinctly different layers of keratin: a hard ‘coating’ a few cell layers deep, and a softer set of cells underneath.
The Process
That shiny, glossy finish you’re seeing? It happens when the top layer of keratin is sloughed off and gets compressed into the softer layers.
It’s your own healthy nail proteins, simply brought to the surface.
Growth is good
After polishing, it takes your nails about a week to regenerate. During this time, they will gradually go back to their dull appearance. Because you want those hard cell layers back for the next shine, it’s best not to touch up the shine in between polishes.
Once you go through a few weeks or months of buffing, waiting, and observing, you can start to get a better sense for how your body adapts to this method. For instance, if your endocrine system is disrupted because of hormonal changes, pregnancy, or menopause, you may see a shift in how the keratin forms (or in those cases does not form). Being gentle and patient (and not trying to force perfection) will serve you well for your healthy nail journey.
Challenging nail industry messaging
For many years, the common dialog has been that buffing damages nails irreparably. And that nails do not grow back on the surface. So if you're skeptical, you've likely been told this by magazines, blogs, and some influential nail techs. Our research and experience indicate a more nuanced understanding of regrowth, and if you're interested in diving into the science, we've written about it here.
A New Understanding of Nail Care
The appearance and strength of a nail are the result of complex interactions between keratin types, hydration, lipid content, and external care. Buffing, when done with intention and restraint, doesn’t strip the nail—it supports a subtle regenerative process that may include:
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Improved keratin alignment
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Strengthened surface cohesion
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Enhanced light reflection
What kinds of damage the polisher can help to heal
We've found that people who've experienced damage from incorrect gel removal are good candidates for restoration with the Dry Gloss Manicure method. Gel removal can cause keratin granules to lift off the nail bed, creating a roughened surface that gentle buffing can smooth. Acrylic damage often comes in the form of scars from the e file used to remove the adhesive. For this, we recommend fully growing out your nail until this ridge is gone. Believe us... patience here will pay off! If you choose to buff while you still have that ridge, just be aware you won't be able to remove it by buffing.
When to use caution
Now that you have a better understanding of how this technology works, you may have guessed that any condition that has compromised the integrity of the nail will be a barrier to positive outcome.
Instances where buffing should be delayed until the condition is healed: When your nails are peeling, splitting or separating from the nail bed. All of these are cases where the nail’s integrity is compromised, which aren’t ideal conditions to buff. Consult your dermatologist for treatment for splitting and separating.
If you’ve always had extremely thin and bendy nails since childhood, you likely have a genetic condition that keeps your nail keratin from producing the harder cell layers. For you, we recommend using our cuticle oil and nail file to support a neatly filed bare nail.
We wrote an article specifically to address the nuanced issue of nail ridges, and it will guide you through the best choice for your situation.
The freedom to go bare
After trying the Dry Gloss Manicure, we’ve seen thousands of people transform their nail health, and begin to see nail care as a positive way to support your body's natural functions. If you’re curious to find out if this method is a good fit for your nail type, take our Nail Quiz and we’ll give you specific product advice. We're focused on safety above all else, so if you've got feedback or questions, reach out to us via the contact form.
